What to Keep in a Car Emergency Kit
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Most car emergency kits are bought once, thrown in the boot, and never opened. Then the one time something happens, half of it is useless and the important bit is flat.
This is a list built around what actually goes wrong — not what fills out a product bundle.
Start with what actually happens
Roadside incidents cluster heavily around a few boring things:
- Flat battery
- Tire trouble — low pressure, slow puncture, flat
- Locked out, out of fuel, or simply lost
- Minor stuff that's only a crisis because you can't see or can't call
Serious mechanical failure happens, but you're not fixing that at the roadside regardless. Build the kit around the common problems, not the dramatic ones.
The genuinely essential
A way to start the car. Jumper cables or a portable jump starter. Cables are cheap and never go flat, but need a second car and a willing driver. A jump starter works alone — provided you've kept it charged. That caveat matters more than the spec.
A way to inflate a tire. Low pressure is more common than a blowout, and a slow leak is usually enough to get you home if you can top it up. Skip this and you're waiting for someone else.
A phone charger that doesn't depend on the car. A cable is no help if the car is dead. A power bank — or a jump starter with USB output — works when the car doesn't.
A torch. Your phone's light works, but it burns the battery you may need for a call. Anything that isn't your phone is better than your phone.
A hi-vis vest. Cheap, tiny, and the difference between being seen and not. Keep it in the cabin, not the boot — you want it on before you get out on a live road.
A warning triangle. Legally required in some places, useful everywhere. Same logic.
A first aid kit. Basic is fine. Never needing it is the goal.
Worth having
- Tire sealant. Buys you a short trip to a garage on small punctures. Won't fix a sidewall tear, and some shops charge extra to clean it out — a get-home tool, not a repair.
- Gloves. Everything under a bonnet is filthy, hot, or both.
- A rain poncho. Weighs nothing. Changing a wheel soaked through is genuinely miserable.
- Water. For you, mainly. Rotate it.
- A blanket. If you break down somewhere cold and have to wait, this stops being a nicety fast.
- A physical note of your breakdown cover number and policy details. On paper. Because the failure mode is a dead phone.
- A multi-tool.
- Wet wipes. Unglamorous, disproportionately welcome.
Situational
- Winter: ice scraper, de-icer, small shovel if you get real snow, extra warm layers.
- Long road trips: more water, snacks, paper map if you're going somewhere with no signal.
- Kids in the car: the wait is the problem, not the breakdown. Snacks, water, something to do.
- Rural or remote driving: everything above, plus tell someone your route.
What most kits include that you won't use
Not useless — just lower priority than the marketing suggests:
- Tow rope. Towing needs a second vehicle, a proper towing point, and someone who knows what they're doing. Rarely the right call.
- Enormous tool sets. If you can't diagnose it, a socket set won't help.
- Window breaker / seatbelt cutter. Reasonable to own — but useless in the boot. In the cabin, within reach, or don't bother.
- Spare fuses. Fine if you know your fuse box. Most people don't.
The bit everyone gets wrong
Here's the actual failure mode: the kit is fine, but the powered items are flat.
A jump starter at 0% is a brick. A power bank at 0% is a paperweight. A torch with corroded batteries is nothing at all. Lithium cells self-discharge slowly even unused, and a hot boot in summer speeds that up.
So the single highest-value thing on this page isn't an item. It's a recurring calendar reminder, every three months, to check the charge on anything with a battery.
Set it now. It matters more than which jump starter you buy.
Where to keep it
Most in the boot, but hi-vis vest, torch, and any escape tool belong in the cabin. On a motorway hard shoulder you want the vest on before you open the door — not after walking round to the boot.
Keeping it simple
The best kit is the one you actually maintain. Three items you keep charged beat a twenty-piece bundle you last looked at two years ago.
If you strip it right back: a way to start the car, a way to inflate a tire, a way to charge your phone, and a hi-vis vest. That covers most of what realistically happens.
Those first three are why combined units exist — one thing to keep charged instead of three things to forget.
See the RoadReady All-in-One Jump Starter & Tire Inflator →
Related guides
- How to jump start a car: a step-by-step guide
- How to check and inflate your tire pressure
- Why car batteries die in cold weather
- What size jump starter do I need?
Common questions
Do I need a kit if I have breakdown cover?
They solve different problems. Cover is for what you can't fix; a kit is for the twenty-minute problems you can fix yourself rather than waiting an hour for. Low tire, flat battery, dead phone — all faster to handle yourself.
Is a pre-made kit worth it?
Fine as a starting point, but they're built to hit a price and a piece count. The powered items — where quality matters most — are usually the weakest part. Buy the important things individually.
How often should I check it?
Anything with a battery, every three months. Everything else, twice a year — heading into winter and before summer road trips. Check expiry dates on first aid supplies and sealant.
What if I don't have a spare wheel?
Many new cars ship with a sealant kit instead. Know which you have before you need it — and know sealant won't fix a sidewall tear or a fully destroyed tire.
Does this apply to EVs?
Mostly yes. EVs have a 12V battery for the electronics that can go flat like any other. Jump-start procedures differ significantly by model — check your manual, and never touch the high-voltage system.
General guidance only. Legal requirements for items like warning triangles and hi-vis vests vary by country and state — check your local rules. In a breakdown, prioritise getting yourself and passengers to safety over any attempt at roadside repair. Never attempt repairs on a motorway hard shoulder or in an unsafe location.